Waste Water Plant

Frequently Asked Questions

Immediately call the following phone numbers in the order listed until you reach someone.

7 AM TO 3:30 PM

1. Wastewater treatment plant 647-6926

2. City Hall 647-3205

3. DPW 647-6129

4. Ionia Central Dispatch 647-7521 ext. #4

AFTER 3:30 PM

1. Ionia Central Dispatch 647-7521 ext. #4

2. Pager Number 1 517-229-0300

3. Pager Number 2 517-229-0949

Many homes are equipped with an outside sewer clean-out that gives you access to your sanitary sewer house service. It is usually a plastic, clay or iron pipe located at ground level a couple of feet from the foundation of your house or by the street curb. It may be buried a few inches below ground level. Check your yard to see if you have one. In the event that the main sewer line is backing up into your house sewer line, removing the cap from your clean-out may keep it from backing up inside your home.

What is a sanitary sewer house service and who does it belong to?

A sanitary sewer house service is typically a 4 inch diameter pipe made of iron, clay, plastic that runs underground from the City’s sanitary sewer main to your house. It connects the indoor plumbing of a house to the City’s main sewer line. The sanitary sewer house service is a part of the plumbing system of the home, and is owned by the property owner.

Who is responsible for maintaining the sanitary sewer house service?

The property owner is responsible for maintaining their sanitary sewer house service.

Ninety percent of the problems the homeowner has with their house sewer service is roots growing through joints and cracks in the line. Roots, when large enough, will plug the line causing water from the house to drain away slowly or not at all. This will require the roots to be cut out of the pipe. The property owner will probably need to removed the roots once a year in order to prevent the roots from growing back and plugging the line. Because of the constant maintenance and potential for sewage backing up into the home, many property owners prefer to replace their faulty line with new PVC, schedule 35, plastic pipe.

Is there a way I can know if the sewer problem I’m experiencing is the City’s responsibility or mine?

If the blockage is in the City’s sewer main, it is the City’s responsibility. If the blockage is between the City main and your house, it is the homeowner’s responsibility. To help determine whether problem is with the City main or your house sewer line, answer the following questions.

Is the drain problem limited to one sink, bathtub or other single fixture?

YES: The blockage is in your house. For example if the bathtub won’t drain but the toilet will flush, the problem is between the bathtub and where it drains into the main building sewer line. You then are responsible for taking care of the problem.

NO: If none of the drains in your home will work, the problem may be either the sewer main or your house service that is plugged. Go to question #2.

Does the water back up occur only when you are using water in your house (a) or does it occur even when no water is being used (b)?

If the back up occurs only when you are using water in your house, the problem is most likely in your house service pipe and you are responsible.

If sewage is backing up into your house, even when you are not using any water, the problem is most likely in the sewer main and the City is responsible.

In either case, call the wastewater treatment plant immediately and we will check the main lines and let you know where the problem is. There is no charge for this service.

I can smell a sewer gas odor in my house. What should I do?

First, make sure it is not natural gas you smell. If you think it is natural gas, leave your house immediately and report the odor to Consumers Energy from a neighbor’s phone. Do not turn any lights on or off or do anything that might cause a spark.

Sewer gas odors from the sewer main can only get into your house through your house plumbing. Every drain in your house should have a gas trap under it. That’s the U shaped plumbing under your sinks. The water trapped in the gas trap keeps the sewer gasses from entering your house. Check to see if all drains have a gas trap. Don’t forget the clothes washer drain. The drains in the basement floor should also have gas traps. The most common cause of sewer order in homes is when the water evaporates out of an unused or seldom used floor drain. The drain may be covered by a carpet installed in the basement. To correct the problem, just pour water down the drain every so often to keep the gas trap filled.

Another cause of sewer odors is a plugged or restricted sewer gas vent pipe in your house. Any build up of sewer gas pressure in the sewer mains should be vented thorough the vent pipe out into the atmosphere. If the vent pipe is plugged (or does not exist), the sewer gas may have enough pressure to bubble through the water in the gas traps.

The City of Portland is committed to helping you solve your sewer problem regardless of who is responsible for the problem.

Do I need a permit to install or replace a house sewer service?

The answer is Yes. You may obtain a Sewer Connection Permit by clicking on SANITARY SEWER CONNECTION PERMIT and downing loading the permit form. There is not cost for this permit. We keep the permit information on file to help locate the sewer service should it be necessary in the future.

How is my sewer bill determined?

Your sewer bill is determined in the following manner. All residential households in Portland use a 5/8-inch water meter. The sewer service demand charge for a 5/8” meter is $6.67 per month. In addition to the monthly sewer service demand charge, there is an actual usage charge. The City currently charges $3.39 for every thousand gallons of water used.

For example, if you used 6,000 gallons of water in a month (the average amount of water used by a family of four) the actual usage charge would be $20.34 [6,000 gal / 10000 gal x $3.39]. Next, add in the monthly sewer service demand charge of $6.67 for a 5/8-inch water meter. Your total sewer bill would then be $27.01 [$6.67 + $20.34 = $27.01].

If you have a different size water meter or if you have any questions regarding your sewer charge please contact the Utility Billing Department at 647-3205.

How can I reduce the amount of my sewer bill?

Because your sewer bill is directly linked to the amount of water you use, the best way to reduce your sewer bill is to reduce your water usage (which also saves money). Here is a tip that may save you money. Put some food dye in your toilet tank and then look to see if the color is leaking into the toilet bowl. If it does, you are loosing water through your toilet. It could be a very minor loss or you could be losing a hundred or more gallons a day. For more information than you’ll probable ever want to know about your toilet and how to maintain it, click on TOILET.

Toilet Information and Maintenance

We don’t usually think of our toilets as items requiring regular maintenance aside from cleaning. While toilets generally are not a high maintenance item, it is important to understand how they work and what we can do to keep them working properly and efficiently. A leaky toilet costs you money. The following information is probably more than most of you ever wanted to know about your toilet, but some of you will find it valuable.

Toilet Leak Detection

Leaking toilets waste more water than any other fixture in the home. Even a silent toilet leak (that’s one you normally can’t hear) will waste from 30 to 500 gallons of water per day! The ones you can hear will waste much, much more. Such wastage can normally be attributed to a faulty water level adjustment or to a leaky flapper.

Most people will say their toilet does not leak. However, there is a way to find out for sure. Put some dark colored food dye in the tank then watch to see if the colored dye is entering the toiler bowl. If there is color, or if you already can hear and or see water running in your bowl, it’s time for a new flapper!

After installing the new flapper, run the dye test again to assure you have no leak. If the leak persists (and every now and then it will), you are probably going to have to replace the entire flush valve.

"My toilet only leaks in the middle of the night"

Many toilets really do leak only at night; that’s because people use much less water during these hours and in many municipal water systems, the water pressure rises considerably during this time. It is not uncommon for system water pressure to rise by 15 to 20 pounds per square inch (psi), and by as much as 30 psi in some situations. This rise in pressure could cause “water creep” inside your gravity-fed tank by 1/2 inch or more. That is why the manufacturers of toilets normally suggest that the water level to be set at approximately one inch below the top of the overflow tube.

If you only notice your toilet running in the middle of the night, there is a good chance that the water level in your tank is set too high.

Water level adjustment

Even a new toilet needs its water level adjusted within 30 days of toilet installation. That is because there are rubber diaphragms in most all ballcock (see “Toilet Parts” below) mechanisms and those diaphragms stretch like a rubber band. Also, an increase in water pressure (usually in early morning hours) can cause the water level inside the tank to rise. For example, a 15 to 20 pound pressure increase can cause the water level in your tank to rise by up to 1/2- inch, and it is not uncommon for your water pressure to rise that much during the very early morning hours. To lower the water level in your tank, find the adjusting screw on the top of your fill valve. A screwdriver (or even a dime) will be all you need to turn the screw. If you want to lower the level, turn the screw clockwise on those ballcock-type mechanisms with floats hanging off the end of metal rods or plastic arms. If your fill valve has the float sliding up and down the barrel or shaft, then you will need to lower the stiff wire-like link using the "V" shaped clip. With either type, it might take you several tries to get the water to the level recommended by the manufacturer. On some toilets, the water level is shown as a line inscribed in the porcelain, others will have the line indicated on the overflow tube. If you are unable to find a water level mark then a good rule of thumb is to adjust the level to 1-inch below the top of the overflow tube and then check the level every three months.

In isolated cases the water will creep up on the overflow tube even though the adjustment is correct. If you find water is escaping through the overflow tube, your ballcock diaphragm is likely the culprit. If you value your time, you are probably better off to replace the entire fill valve, instead of replacing just the diaphragm. The replacement of the fill valve is relatively simple. Turn the water off at the shut-off/supply valve, remove the supply line from the fill valve, remove the flange nut on the underside of the tank that anchors the fill valve, disconnect the refill tube and pull out the old valve. It's probably a good idea to take the old valve to the hardware store and once there, check with their resident plumbing specialist regarding the best choice. There are now replacement fill valves available that are a great improvement over the old dinosaur you have with you. Install your new model following the manufacturer's instructions.

Final Check

Use your water meter to check for leaks. After making sure that all sources of running water are off, check the water meter where the water piping enters your house and observe if there is any movement of the dial. There should be no movement. If there is, water is leaking from somewhere. By listening carefully around your house, you may be able to track down the leak by hearing the hiss of water running.

Cleaning

Recent research has shown that many common toilet cleaning products can damage the rubber flapper causing significant leakage. Dropping certain toilet bowl cleaners (usually in the form of large white tablets) into your toilet tank may result in damage to the parts within the tank, especially if you do not flush your toilet at least once a day. Some manufacturers may even void the warranty on those parts. If you chose to use these cleaners, the toilet must be flushed at least once per day. As an alternative, use the in-bowl toilet cleaner rather than the in-tank cleaners.

Toilet parts

Tank — The tank is the top portion which holds either the freestanding water to be flushed (gravity-fed) or the pressure-assist cylinder (pressure-assist). On a gravity-fed toilet the tank houses the fill valve (frequently called a "ballcock"), the flush valve (usually including an overflow tube with a flapper and flapper seat) and the flush or trip lever. These parts are called "trim."

Tank Lid — It’s the top most part of your toilet tank and covers the mechanisms inside your tank.

Bowl — The bowl is the lower half of the toilet used to hold liquid and solid wastes prior to flushing.

Water Spot/Sanitary Seal — This is the water surface that you see inside the toilet bowl after the flush is completed. This water in the bowl assists with the movement of solids into the trapway and provides a liquid seal in the trapway so that sewer gasses don’t pass from the waste line into your home.

Evacuation - In toilet talk, this is the flushing process that removes liquids and solids from your bowl.

Tank to Bowl Seal - This is the round "donut-shaped" seal between the tank and bowl in a two-piece toilet. This seal provides a cushion upon which the tank rests and acts to prevent water leaks around the coupling between the tank and the bowl.

Shut-off/Supply Valve - The valve on your wall near the base of the toilet with a round or oval handle that allows you to shut your water off while servicing the toilet.

Supply Line - This is the solid or flexible line between the shut-off/supply valve and the connection on the bottom of your tank (fill valve fitting).

Billy Bolt Set - A package of "T" shaped bolts, flat and dome nuts, and round and/or oval washers used to connect the toilet bowl to the closet ring.

Closet Ring - The metal or plastic flange that is permanently installed at the end of your waste line (at floor level) and has slots for the "T" bolts/Billy-Bolts. The inside diameter is normally three to four inches. The closet ring mates with the outlet on the bottom of your bowl and provides the means for evacuation.

Wax Ring - The yellowish beeswax (or beeswax type material) ring between the bottom of your toilet bowl and the mating closet-ring (flange). It is "donut" shaped, about one inch thick. A seal is achieved when the wax ring is squeezed between the bottom of your toilet bowl and the top of the closet-ring.

Ballcock (Fill Valve) - You will only find this in a gravity-fed toilet. It is the tall mechanism you see inside your tank (left-hand side) with a float connected to it by means of a metal rod or plastic arm. Or, instead of a float mounted at the end of a rod, it can have the float sliding up and down the tube/barrel of the mechanism itself.

Float - The bulb-shaped sphere on the outer end of the float rod/arm OR the can-shaped float that slides up and down over the fill valve tube.

Float Arm - The metal rod or plastic arm that connects the ballcock's float to the shut-off lever on the ballcock valve itself. On those fill valves without the float at the end of a rod or arm, a rod-like stiff-heavy wire link with an adjusting clip connects the shut-off lever to the float, performing the same shut-off function.

Float Arm Adjusting Screw - This screw is normally only found where the float is connected to the shut-off lever by means of the metal rod or plastic arm. When turned clockwise, this screw causes the water flowing into the tank to shut off earlier. The same effect is accomplished by moving the stiff wire link downward using the adjusting clip for the slide-type float mechanism.

Douglas Flush Valve - You will find this in most gravity-fed toilets. It is the mechanism you see directly in the center, inside your tank. On one side of it, you will see a hollow tube approximately one inch in diameter (the overflow tube). Connected to the tube by means of "trunion mounting ears" is the flapper. The flapper regulates the amount of water that passes from the tank into your bowl during the flush cycle.

Refill Tube - This is the small plastic tube (approximately 1/8-inch in diameter) that is connected near the top of the ballcock mechanism on one end and to the inside of the overflow tube on the other end. Water only flows through this tube during the flush cycle and is the water that replenishes the toilet's water spot/sanitary seal.

Overflow Tube - This is the approximately one-inch diameter hollow tube to which the refill tube is connected. This is the passageway for the water making up the water spot/sanitary seal to enter the bowl. When the water level is adjusted too high, then water will flow from the inside of the tank into this tube and into the toilet bowl.

Trunion and Trunion-ring - Trunion "mounting ears" are the approximately 1/8-inch diameter by 3/8-inch long shafts protruding out from the overflow tube near its base. These are the "ears" to which the flapper connects. In some cases the overflow tube is void of these ears in which case, a "rubber" type round "trunion-ring" with two mounting ears slides down over the tube to provide the connecting points for the flapper.

Flapper - The flapper is the flush valve seal and serves to control the volume of water passing from the tank to the bowl during the flush cycle. It mates with the seat on the Douglas flush valve to complete the seal and prevent water leaking from the tank into the bowl between flushes. Almost all flappers are shaped, in part, like a "flying saucer," that is, slight "dome" on top, flat like a "pancake" in the center and then (not like a flying saucer) a "funnel" or "bulb" shape on the bottom. This whole assembly is usually one molded part and is made of flexible rubber-like material. The center or pancake shaped mid-section is approximately three inches in diameter. Other flappers (or seals) are of a flat washer-like design.

There are four common types of flappers:

1. Non-air bled - Most always found in 3.5 gallon to 7 gallon toilets and occasionally in some ultra-low-flush toilets (ULFTs). The non-air bled or "standard" flapper has an air chamber in the funnel shaped section. In the small end is an opening approximately 1/2-inch in diameter. This small end faces down and there is no way for the air caught inside to escape, therefore, it floats on top of the water in the tank until the force of the water going through the opening in the Douglas flush valve causes the flapper to close and seal.

2. Air bled with calibrated orifice - Often called an "early closing" flapper. This flapper is sometimes used to achieve the 1.6 gallon flush volume in a number of ULFTs where tanks are much larger than 1.6 gallons in capacity. This flapper also has an air chamber, but in the upper portion of the funnel is a round "air-bleed" hole approximately 1/4-inch in diameter. In the small 1/2-inch section of the funnel is a snugly fit insert. In the middle of the insert is an orifice. There are a number of different size orifices to accommodate different toilet manufacturers' requirements. (In some cases, the orifice size is adjusted through a "dial" type insert, thereby making it an "adjustable" flapper.) The size of the orifice determines how quickly water enters the funnel shaped chamber to displace the air that escapes through the 1/4-inch air-bleed hole near the top. When enough air is displaced with water, the flapper is no longer buoyant and sinks to seal off the escaping water long before all of the water can evacuate the tank; thus, the term "early closing."

3. Air bled with float - Also known as an "early closing" type and is used to achieve the 1.6 gallon flush volume in a number of ULFTs. It also has an air chamber with a round air-bleed hole approximately 1/4-inch in diameter in the upper portion of the funnel shaped chamber. There is no insert in the small 1/2-inch section of the funnel to regulate how quickly the water displaces the air in the chamber. Instead, a float is connected to the top of the flapper by means of a chain. The float remains on top of the water in the tank and the length of the chain connected to the flapper determines how quickly the flapper (which has quickly filled with water) will reach the flapper seat and shut off the flow of water between the tank and bowl.

4. Flat seal - A washer-like disk with a flat surface and a hole in the center. The flat seal is common to all toilets that use a piston-type flush valve (as opposed to the Douglas flush valve) as well as being used in some with unique flush valve designs. The flat seal is between 2 1/2-inches and 3 1/2-inches in diameter, of flexible rubber-like synthetic material, and is easily installed on the body of the flush valve.

Flapper Seat - The hard, round surface at the base (or seat) of the Douglas flush valve. The flapper rests on the seat when the valve is closed. The seat surrounds the two-inch opening at the base of the Douglas flush valve, which is almost always made of PVC material although some older toilets were equipped with brass valves. All water used during the flush cycle passes through the valve.

Water Level - The water level inside the tank of a gravity-fed toilet. Some manufacturers cast a porcelain "fill line" inside the tank, while other manufacturers put a fill mark on the overflow tube. In some cases, no fill line is indicated. In such circumstances, a good rule of thumb is to adjust the water level to one inch below the top of the overflow tube.

Flush or Trip Handle - This is the handle normally found on the upper left front of the tank or on the upper left side of the tank. It is the mechanism pushed or pulled to effect the flush.

Flush or Trip Lever Arm - This is the metal or plastic extension connected to the flush valve. It is on the inside of the tank and can be up to six inches long. It reaches from the handle directly to the flush valve or to a location over the top of the flapper.

Flush or Trip Lever Chain/Tail - This is the connecting link between the flush/trip lever arm and the flapper. When adjusted properly, this connecting link allows the arm to pull the flapper open to initiate the flush cycle.

Source:

CUWCC Practical Plumbing Handbook